jegharfangetmigenmyg wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 6:47 pm
I didn't know that the studios had different nit intensity standards, but it makes sense. The one extreme transfer that just killed my eyes and looked very intense and non-filmic, I would even say, on my PJ was
Ghostbusters which was released by Sony. I checked on my UB-420, and if I remember correctly it was mastered at 1000 nits. But then, when I set my player to output in SDR Rec. 709, it looked extremely pleasing as if the high nit level made the downsampling easier for the Panny and the result better.
They don't have set standards or anything, but they do use grading monitors of different levels. WB and Sony are the only ones that regularly grade on the Dolby Pulsar, which I believe is the only set available that is capable of 4000 nits of brightness. All of the other studios use 1000 nit monitors. Ghostbusters was graded on the 4000 nit monitor, and its highest averaged frame goes as high as 2273 nits. This is rather an insane way to grade a film based title and if your TV (and especially a projector) isn't very proficient at tone mapping HDR10 (i.e. knowing that it should take a title like this and map its brightness down massively), it instead will just play every part of any bright or daylight scene in the film at the maximum capability of your output device. Dolby Vision on a title like Ghostbusters would be a huge benefit but alas, it's a rarity with Sony.
Drucker wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 7:42 pm
swo17 wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 7:40 pm
I only have a UHD player (and no 4K screen) for the time being but I still think it's worth it to be able to watch UHDs that don't come in dual-format editions, or things like these new Hitchcock UHDs, which I can output in 1080p instead of the Blu-rays sporting lesser transfers
I thought doing this actually made it so the color range or something else was messed up? That in general, it wasn't advised to watch UHD discs on an HD 1080 screen?
Outputting such discs in 1080p is no concern at all, but outputting them in SDR can be. These discs exist in HDR at source, it's not something you can just remove. So to display them on a normal HDTV, they must be converted from HDR to SDR (or to put it another way, from PQ to gamma). I've never had to do this but I suspect the results could be disastrous if the player doing the conversion is not up to the task. But since swo is using an Oppo, he's probably got one of the best converters available (though I believe the Pansonic players are the class leaders at SDR conversion).
senseabove wrote: Wed Sep 08, 2021 6:59 pm
I admit to not knowing much at all about image/color science, but I'm surprised Rear Window is "low dynamic range"? Over the movie as a whole, the range from the dim interior of Stewart's apartment, the daytime courtyard, the brightly-lit apartment interiors against the nighttime courtyard, and the flash-bulb scene for a very specific example, would have made me assume it was a relatively high dynamic range (for a movie of the era and as much as I know what that means). Since, from what I understand, DV/HDR10+ allow shot-by-shot HDR metadata, and standard HDR10 uses one metadata profile for the entire movie, wouldn't something with swings from almost illegibly dark to intentionally, blindingly white benefit from the shot-by-shot fine tuning that DV allows? Perhaps the only thing that I was slightly underwhelmed by in RW was those flashes—it was surprising to actually still be able to see anything during them, as they really are truly blinding in a theatrical setting—and I was idly wondering if DV would have allowed it to handle such extremes better.
Speaking of which, if you have any recommendations for at least somewhat amateur friendly calibration guides, EddieLarkin, I'd love to know. All the various input/profile + SDR/HDR/DV combinations are a little overwhelming, but I think I've got things at least mostly standardized so I'm comparing apples to apples.
It still sounds like you're thinking of Dolby Vision and HDR10 as seperate grading methods. Titles are not graded in anything but HDR/PQ/SMPTE ST 2084 (these terms are essentially interchangeable). So when a title has been graded, that look is locked in and neither HDR10, HDR10+ or Dolby Vision change anything about that look. If a TV can handle say, 1000 nits of brightness, and a title is graded in HDR up to a maximum of 1000 nits of brightness, then the dynamic metadata of HDR10+ and DV is not going to do anything to improve the picture. The TV already knows how to display the title. But if a TV can only do 500 nits of brightness, then the metadata will tell the TV how to change the image it's receiving so as best to represent it at its lower max brightness level.
As for Rear Window, this is overall a title with fairly low average brightness as far as HDR goes (I don't remember the exact figures though). But that doesn't mean it doesn't have a decent dynamic range. Universal's approach to grading HDR is the total opposite of Sony (and far superior in my opinion), they simply keep the average brightness level the same as you'd expect in SDR, and only extend it past this point for the instances of bright highlights in the film (this approach to grading is actually recommended in the SMPTE guidelines). This means that whilst they are operating at a much lower average level of brightness, the range of brightness is still high, AND something like Dolby Vision isn't as important as more TVs will be able to handle this style of HDR without issue.
As for your settings, the first thing to get right is SDR. A big mistake a lot people make with HDR sets is they set their SDR luminance level very high. This is going to directly impact the difference you experience in comparing the two, as SDR is a relative luminance system whislt HDR is absolute. Meaning, with SDR you can push it well beyond the max level a title is graded at (100 nits), but HDR you can't. This leads to complaints about generally dark and dim titles like Arrow's Donnie Darko UHD, with the Blu-ray.com forums filled with people saying the UHD disc is vastly darker than the BD. But it is not, they just have their SDR luminance set too bright.
On Sony sets you set this with the "Brightness" control. Most other brands call it "OLED Light", swapping what other brands call Brightness for "Black Level" (which is actually more accurate a term). So Brightness in SDR should be set as low as you can comfortably go, and obviously the darker your room the lower this will be. I suspect around 30 on the control will be about 100 nits peak white so this is the point you shouldn't go below. Anything around 30-50 should be fine. Those who have this set around 80-100 are cheating themselves (unless they have a very bright viewing environment, in which case HDR is going to look poor anyway).
As for everything else, this seems a good place to start:
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/sony/ ... d/settings